torsdag 23. juni 2016

D’Oliveiras





Madeira

1989 D'Oliveiras Vintage Malvazia
NOV 14 Rav. Intens, tørkede frukter, mineraler og nøtter, detaljert malvazia. Frisk syre, livlig, intens, rik, fruktig, lag på lag, lang, frisk, heftig og flott. 93

1989 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
DEC 13 Ravgul med gullfarget kant. Tørket frukt, aprikoser, nøtter, noe karamell, brent sukket. Frisk syre, forfriskende og mer elegant i munn, avrundet for en ung Madeira, leken og livlig for Malvazia, lang. 92

1989 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
OCT 13 Amber, golden rim. Dried fruits, apricots, nuts, slight caramel note, burnt sugar nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and elegant, quite playful, rounded for a young Madeira, long. 92

1989 D'Oliveiras Colheita Sercial
NOV 14 Rav. Tørkede frukter, mineraler, intens duft. Frisk syre, livlig, fruktig og intens, litt stram, nesten saltpreget, pen lengde. 89

1989 D'Oliveiras Colheita Sercial
DEC 13 Oransje med gyllentone på farge. Tørket frukt og nøtter på duft, liten karamelltone. Frisk syre, livlig og leken i munn, slankere stil, noe brente toner i finish, frisk. 88

1989 D'Oliveiras Sercial
OCT 13 Orange, golden hue. Nuts, dried fruits, touch of caramel on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, lean palate, refreshing, quite crisp, long. Bit burnt finish. 88

1989 D'Oliveiras Colheita Sercial
NOV 12 Pale amber with golden tints. Nuts, some dried fruits, touch of caramel and minerals. Fresh acidity, rich and dry Sercial, somewhat tighter than some, good length. 88

1988 D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez
DEC 15 Lyst ravgul. Nøtter, elegant og fruktig duft. Frisk syre, livlig, elegant og forfriskende, nyansert, elegant for alderen, ung Madeira er noen ganger litt røffe i kanten, lite av det her. 92

1988 D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez
NOV 14 Rav. Nøtter, tørkede frukter, aprikoser, rik og intens duft. Frisk syre, livlig og intens, kraftig, nesten litt mye, rik, detaljert og lang. 92

1988 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
OCT 13 Bright amber. I wonder if this one is slightly corked, subdued nuts, not that intense and seems to lack fruit as well. Faint cardboard touch. 

1988 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
SEP 13 Amber, golden rim. Nuts, elegant, dried fruits nose. Fresh acidity, elegant, superb, lively and long, nuanced, another fine example of this very rare grape variety. 92

1988 D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez
NOV 12 Amber with golden tints. Nuts, dried apricots, raisins and minerals. Fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering, long finish. 89

1984 D'Oliveiras Colheita Boal
NOV 14 Rav. Nøtter, rik duft, karamell og rosiner, intens. Frisk syre, livlig, igjen karamell, noe brent treverk (ikke fra fat) og tørkede frukter, fin lengde. 89

1984 D'Oliveiras Colheita Boal
DEC 13 Ravgul farge. Nøtter, krydder og tørkede frukter på duft. Frisk syre, livlig og frisk, elegant, flott balanse for en yngre Madeira, lang. 92

1984 D'Oliveiras Boal
SEP 13 Amber, golden rim. Nuts, spices, some dried fruits on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, fruity, elegant and long. One of few younger vintages of Madeira that feels fully balanced. 92

1984 D'Oliveiras Colheita Boal
NOV 12 Pale amber. Dried apricots, raisins, caramel and nuts far behind. Fresh and lively acidity, elegant texture, refreshing, somewhat leaner finish, good length. 89

1981 D'Oliveiras Vintage Verdelho
NOV 14 Rav. Rik, nøtter, tørkede frukter på duft, litt stram. Frisk syre, livlig, frisk, detaljert og intens, vinner på å stå åpen ett døgn, lang finish. 91

1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 13 Ravfarget med gull kant. Nøtter, tørket frukt og aprikoser på duft. Frisk syre, forfriskende, litt slank men fruktig, pen lengde. 89

1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
OCT 13 Amber, thin golden rim. Nuts, dried fruits, apricots nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and fruity, good length. 89

1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
NOV 12 Amber, orange rim. Dried fruits, nuts, some apricots behind. Fresh and high acidity, rich yet somewhat lean body, long raisins finish. 90

1977 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
MAY 12 Amber, orange rim. Intense, rich, nuts, orange peel, chocolate, complex. Fresh feel, high acidity, mouthwatering, layered, intense, beautiful aftertaste, long. 92

1977 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
NOV 12 Bright amber, golden rim. Nuts, vanilla, dried fruits, apricots and orange peel. High acidity, refreshing, again that young Madeira leaner body, long. 90

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 13 Mørkt rav med gyllentone. Intens duft av tørkede aprikoser og rosiner, rik duft. Frisk syre, fruktig, forfriskende og livlig, lang ettersmak. 91

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
OCT 13 Darker amber, thin golden hue. Intense, nuts, dried and fresher apricots, rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, mouthwatering and playful, long finish. 91

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
SEP 13 Deep amber. Caramel, nuts, dried fruits, rich and intense, wood polish nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant and lively, long. 90

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
NOV 12 Amber with golden rim. More refined nose, more nuances, layered of dried exotic fruits, nuts, raisins and minerals. Some butter and butter scotch. Fresh acidity, lively and elegant, mouthwatering, up front and still subtle. Very long finish. 92

1971 D'Oliveiras Vintage Terrantez
NOV 14 Rav. Aprikoser, mineraler, rosiner, nøtter ig tørkede frukter. Frisk syre, livlig, rik, intens, lag på lag, forfriskende, munnen løper i vann, lang. 93

1971 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
DEC 13 Lyst ravgul. Intens duft, røykaromaer, tørket frukt, nesten en whisky tone, brente mandler, elegant nese. Frisk syre, elegant munnfølelse, forfriskende, lang ettersmak. 92

1971 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
OCT 13 Bright amber. Intense nose, dried fruits, smoky, almost like Islay, roasted nuts, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and elegant palate, mouthwatering, fruity, long finish. 92

1971 D'Oliveiras Vintage Sercial
NOV 14 Rav. Aprikoser og mineraler på duft, nesten saltaktig, tight. Frisk syre, livlig, frisk og detaljert, intens, nyansert, flott "ung" sercial. Lang. 91

1971 D'Oliveiras Sercial
DEC 13 Gyllen farge. Kanel, julekrydder, nøtter og appelsinmarmelade på duft. Frisk syre, lettere stil, elegant og livlig, fin balanse, pen lengde. 89

1971 D'Oliveiras Sercial
MAY 12 Golden with amber tints. Nuts, cinnamon, spices, orange-marmalade. Fresh and high acidity, light feel to it, balanced, long finish. 89

1971 D'Oliveiras Sercial
JAN 05 Pale amber, some smoke, minerals, flint, orange peel, citrus, nuts, sweet fruits, but dry mouthfeel, exceptional acidity, really fresh, a bit short finish. 85

1968 D'Oliveiras Boal
JAN 05 Deep amber, very young actually, concentrated, some coffee, citrus, nuts, extreme acidity, very refreshing, (rest of note lost because of water.)

1966 D'Oliveiras Vintage Verdelho
NOV 14 Rav. Intens duft, aprikoser, mineraler og tørkede frukter. Frisk syre, livlig, intens, moden frukt, rik, nesten røkt finish, lang, munnen løper i vann. 93

1966 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
OCT 12 Deep amber, golden rim. Nuts, dried apricots, and some Christmas spices. Fresh acidity, refreshing with a somewhat lean palate for Verdelho. Long and fresh finish. lovely but young. Every time I taste this I wonder why they don't hold on to it. Maybe the fruit isn't powerful enough, but it always feels too young.  91

1966 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
MAY 12 Amber with orange rim. Rich, intense, citrus, orange peel, caramel, Christmas spices, cloves. Fresh and high acidity, lively, slightly hollow mid-palate, long.
89

1966 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
JAN 05 Pale amber, marzipan, almonds, floral, some citrus, very elegant, almost transparent and layered, some sweetness balance perfectly with the acidity, very fresh, a very elegant Madeira. 89

1958 D'Oliveiras Boal Reserva
OCT 13 Amber, golden rim. Nuts, raisins, dried fruits and caramel notes, slightly burnt note. High acidity, leaner palate, acidic, bottle have been open a long time, lacks a bit of fruit compared to last bottle, long and again slightly burnt. 88

1957 D'Oliveiras Old Wine Madeira
SEP 13 Wine of Tinta Negra Mole. Deep amber, golden rim. Rich but simpler nose, dried fruits. Fairly fresh acidity, fruity and easy going palate, elegant body, fairly short.
82

1937 D'Oliveiras Sercial
JAN 12 Amber with thin green rim. Layered nose, complex, nuts, caramel, spices, like spice shop, floral, orange peel. High acidity, mouthwatering, superb texture, old enough to have mellowed, beautiful balance, concentrated feel, very long.
93

1932 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
JAN 12 Deep amber, orange rim. A touch of VA obscures this one a bit, caramel, nuts and spices. Fresh acidity, quite rich, fuller body than some Verdelho's, long finish.
88

1929 D'Oliveiras Old Wine Madeira
SEP 13 Again Tinta Negra Mole. Gorgeous amber colour with gold rim. Richer nose than the 1957, but similar. Fairly fresh acidity, smoky feel, quite intense, spices and nuts, good length.
87

1927 D'Oliveiras Bastardo
DEC 15 Denne har jeg smakt fem ganger siden 2005, en sjelden druesort på Madeira og har ikke sett andre avtapninger som jeg kommer på. Fruktig og noen flasker har en svak rødfruktig tone over seg. Frisk, floral, bærfruktig, livlig og elegant. Lang ettersmak. 94

1927 D'Oliveiras Bastardo
FEB 13 Amber, orange rim. Chocolate, floral notes, berries, fruitier style again. Fresh acidity, lively, playful even, very elegant and layered, nuanced and long.
93

1927 D'Oliveiras Bastardo Reserva
OCT 12 Amber with golden hue. Floral, scented and some raspberries behind dried fruits and nuts. Fresh acidity, high even, mouthwatering, exotic, butter and touch of caramel. Long. Tasted this a few times and this bottle felt less obviously fruity than some of the others, maybe even better for it. 94

1927 D'Oliveiras Bastardo
JAN 05 Now almost extinct grape variety on Madeira, a rare treat. Pale amber or not to caramelized Cognac on the colour, with red hue. Smells of old port almost, more dark fruits and berries than most Madeira’s, some citrus, a bit volatile, but just charming, fresh and youthful somehow, fresh acidity, some Cointreauish to it.
Great finish. 89

1924 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva
SEP 13 Amber, yellow rim. Nuts, orange peel, rich and intense nose, focused. High acidity, a somewhat fuller body Sercial, maybe more fruity.
Very long but could be more complex. 93

1922 D'Oliveiras Boal
MAR 12 Amber with green hue. Floral, dried fruits, medium intensity and complexity for a Boal. High acidity, more intense palate, figs, cinnamon, playful and richer, orange blossoms, long. 91

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 13 Deep amber, tiny yellow rim. Elegant and rich nose, fruit cake, honey, nuts and dried fruits. Layered and nuanced. Beautiful acidity, very elegant texture, somewhat full, yet lively and elegant, superb balance, mouthwatering, very long finish.
95

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
AUG 12 Amber with yellow rim. I've had this a few times, always a favorite with its straight ahead and open nose, marzipan, citrus, nuts and sweet dried apricots. Fresh and lively acidity, great balance, fresh and lively, complex and layered, very long finish. Great to get to taste it again! 95

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 10 Brown with orange green rim, intense as few, almonds, roasted nuts, grapey notes, caramel, minerals, leafs, tea, both black and green, dried apricots, figs, so complex it's almost impossible to describe. Acidity is perfection, so lively and powerful, makes your tongue dance in pure joy, so refreshing, yet still so old and ancient, extremely long finish, last's for minutes on end. I remember the first time I tasted this wine, and I was mind blown by its freshness, the 1912 Verdelho. The year both of my grandmothers were born actually! That gives it some perspective, doesn't it? Now, many years later, I'm mind blown again by its freshness; it still manages to catch me off guard, even after several tastings. It's almost like the island itself, with the flavours as complex and different as the landscape, and the acidity like the steep mountains and cliffs, charging up from the sea. Perfect! I hope it will surprise me once more, because I'm out of stock! 95

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
JAN 05 Deep amber with orange glow, fantastic nose, caramel, marzipan, almonds, hazelnuts, citrus, some orange peel. Great acidity, perfect balance, very complex, intense, lots of things going on at the same time, fantastic finish.
94

1910 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva
SEP 13 Orange amber colour. Massive nose of nuts, orange peel and cinnamon, almost exploding out of the glass, fruit cake. High acidity, intense, tight, some caramel, enormous complexity, hefty, not the easiest to drink actually. 94

1910 D'Oliveiras Sercial
JAN 05 Amber orange colour, bottled 24 years ago, smoke, nuts, vanilla, some floral notes, more on the nose than one the palate, again this incredible acidity, they dance on the tongue, lacks a bit complexity, but still beautiful.
88

1908 D'Oliveiras Boal
DEC 13 Dyp ravgul farge, oransje kant. Appelsinskall, sitrus, frisk frukt, relativt intens duft. Frisk høy syre, livlig, elegant, lag på lag, nyansert og lang. Smakt en gang, dette notatet er fra mars 2012. 94

1908 D'Oliveiras Boal
MAR 12 Deep amber, orange rim. Orange peel, citrus, fresher fruit, apricots, quite intense, full style. Fresh and high acidity, lively feel, elegant even, layered, nuanced, long.
94

1907 D'Oliveiras Malvazia Reserva
MAR 13 Deep amber, yellow green  rim. Intense, rich and fruity nose, caramel and figs. Rich palate, fresh acidity, sweet, maybe even for Malvazia, but a very refreshing lemon touch to refreshing things. Very long. 95

1907 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
JAN 05 90 years in barrel (Note gone as they got wet, just score possible to read) 88

1907 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
AUG 12 Deep amber. Again grapey and a whiff of citrus over sultanas and apricots. Fresh acidity, livelier than the 1875, and a bit leaner. Playful and long. 94

1905 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
MAR 13 Amber, orange-green rim. Some VA, nose a bit closed, not quite optimal bottle. Fresh and high acidity, lively, better palate, powerful fruit, intense, but lacks some nuances. Long. Slightly better than last bottle. 91

1905 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
DEC 12 Aber, golden rim. Dried fruits, citrus, fruity but lacks some nuances. Fresh acidity, fruity, fresh, elegant but again it lacks some nuances, long. Not the best bottle. 90

1905 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
OCT 12 Amber with gold/orange rim. Nuts, citrus, dried fruits, floral, rich and intense. Fresh acidity, slightly hollow, but refreshing, very long finish. Another I've tasted a few times, quite 'typical' bottle. 93

1905 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva
FEB 13 Amber with orange-green rim. Some VA that blows over on the nose. Abit closed. Dried fruits and nuts. Fresh and high acidity, lively, powerful fruit, intense and maybe not that refined.
Long. 90

1903 D'Oliveiras Boal
JAN 12 Deep amber, red tints, golden rim. Intense and complex nose, nothing jumps out as Paul Pontallier says, magnificent and layered nose. Fresh and high acidity, playful, very lively fruit, superb texture, somewhat leaner than the 1908 Boal, but maybe a touch more refined.
Very nuanced and long. 95

1903 D'Oliveiras Boal
JAN 05 Deep amber, very oxidized style, raisins, citrus, orange marmalade, figs, almonds, complex and intense, but not too elegant, a bit heavy body, big. Very long finish. 93

1900 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
FEB 12 Deep amber, thin, gold rim. Intense, layered, massive complexity, lost for words. Rich, massive intensity, waves of flavours, dense texture, superb balance, brilliant acidity, (shines like a diamond, even if I'm not sure if you can actually say brilliant acidity). So playful and refined, stunning and incredible length. WOW. 99-100

1900 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
JAN 05 This variety is also almost gone from the island and not so easy to find anymore. Red-brown colour, reminds me of a very old Samos Nectar, sweet raisins, quite fresh acidity, very fruity and sweet aromas, but not as sweet as it seems on the palate, a bit heavy, quite intense, very long finish. 88

1900 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 13 Deep amber, almost brown with orange rim. Rich nose, figs, citrus, difficult to describe, nothing jumps out, complex. High and playful acidity, superb texture and structure, massive intensity, very long finish, stunning. 98

1900 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
JAN 05 100 Years in barrel! Deep amber, towards red hue, even more intense, seems deeper somehow, oxidized caramel, if that even exists, then rose hips and citrus, needs time in the glass to open, then nuts and figs, orange marmalade and lemon, great balance, a marvel in its complexity, great acidity, but somehow the 1912 seems more charming and elegantly put together. 92

1895 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
JAN 05 More than 100 years in barrel. Deep amber, very closed, some sweet raisins, extremely elegant, transparent and tender, great balance between acidity and sweetness, long length.
89

1890 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
FEB 12 Amber with orange rim. Almost floral nose, tender, caressing, citrus, lovely nose. High and lively acidity, very refreshing, nuanced and layered. A bit more secretive style, mouthwatering, very elegant, sublime texture, stunning wine. 97

1880 D'Oliveiras Terrantez
JAN 14 Beautiful orange amber colour, gold rim. Rich and complex nose, nothing more to ad. Fresh and high acidity, superb balance, firmer style, layered and nuanced, leaner and maybe more focused than last bottle, tight finish, long. 93

1875 D'Oliveiras Malvazia
JAN 05 Deep amber, again lighter oxidation, some citrus, floral notes, tar, raisins, reminds me of an old Barolo in its flavours, massive acidity, very complex and quite intense, very long finish. 90

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
DEC 15 En meget sjelden drue på og i Madeira, og finnes knapt i yngre utgaver. Moscatel har blitt benyttet som spisedrue på Madeira de siste cirka hundre årene, så moscatel er stort sett kun å finne på gamle årganger. Jeg har smakt denne ikke mindre enn seks ganger, noen flasker er opulente, andre er raffinerte og til og med livlige, noe som er sjeldent i en moscatel. Frisk og livlig, mye nyanser, nesten brun på farge, rik og mer oksidativ stil, enda så leken. Svært lang. 94

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel Reserva
MAR 13 Almost brown, amber hue. Rich nose, very mature, somewhat grapey, apricots, and dried fruits. Rich, playful acidity, more oxidized style, very long. Fresher, livelier and more nuanced than last bottle.
94

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
AUG 12 Deep amber. Heavy nose of sultanas, some sweet lilies, apricots and pineapples. Fresh acidity and lively for Moscatel, less opulent on the palate, long and rich.
91

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
APR 12 A rare grape, hardly been used in wine (only as eating grapes) since 1907 according to Noel Cossart. Almost brown, amber hue. Rich, very mature nose. Feels it's age, grapey aromas, nuts, vanilla, smoke, raisins, sultanas, and a hint of apricots. Also rich palate, on the verge of cloying, but acidity saves it in a playful manner just as one starts to notice the massive feel. More oxidized style than most Madeiras, but I have noticed this on other Moscatel's, maybe caused by less acidity from the grapes? A very rare wine (grape). Long. 94

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel
JAN 05 More than 100 years in barrel, deep amber, not as sweet as the 1900 either on palate or fruity flavours, heavy Moscatel fruitiness, concentrated, lots of acidity, rushes through the mouth, long length. 87

1875 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva
SEP 13 Gorgeous orange-amber colour. Way more tender after the 1910, refined and almost fragile, some nuts, orange peel and orange marmalade. High acidity, fresh, mouthwatering, superb texture, elegant, lively and amazing length, stunning!
97

1862 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva
SEP 13 Slightly paler amber hue. Some nuts, orange peel, again a more tender style. High and very lively acidity, quite an elegant nerve to this one, superb texture, not quite as long as the 1875, but almost an equal.
95

1850 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 15 Nøtter, frukt, krydder, nesten julekrydret, strålende nyansert. Flott friskhet, syrlig, livlig, relativt intens, elegant og nesten en transparent tone over den, utrolig lang ettersmak. 97

1850 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
DEC 13 Gorgeous deepish amber colour. Nuts, spices, very layered and nuanced nose, you can smell this one for hours. Superb acidity and freshness, lively, quite intense, very elegant, layered and almost transparent feel to it, enormous length.
A Beautiful bottle. 97

1850 D'Oliveiras Verdelho
JAN 05 More than 100 years in barrel. Deep amber, sweet of figs, nuts, not as oxidized as normal, hints of orange peel, super soft on the palate, still very lively acidity, some coffee, citrus and floral notes, seems more nuanced with the lesser oxidative notes, very long and elegant.
90

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