ABSL (Artur de Barros e Sousa Limited)

Madeira

2005 ABSL Malvazia
DEC 12 Pale amber. Richer, tropical- and dried fruits nose, oranges and citrus. Fresh acidity, more spicy palate, superb balance, gorgeous aftertaste. 93

2005 ABSL Boal
DEC 12 Pale orange. Rich, fruity, clean and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, lovely fruit, stunning balance, lively and long. 91

2004 ABSL Verdelho
DEC 12 Pale orange. Subdued apples, fruity and pure nose. Dried fruits, touch of nuts. Playful acidity, lively and elegant, again pure, long finish. 90

2004 ABSL Boal
DEC 12 Pale orange. Some bananas, apricots, very pure and fragrant nose. Fresh acidity, elegant palate, fruit driven, more yellow fruity flavours, good length. 89

1983 ABSL Verdelho
DEC 12 Pale amber. Pure, fruit driven nose, very elegant, just a touch oxidative, little for Madeira, floral, lilies. Beautiful and fresh acidity, elegant and lively, waves of pure fruits, apricots, mouthwatering. Very long. 94

1983 ABSL Verdelho
FEB 12 Yes, this is a young Madeira. But the Olim brothers who run the family company ABSL makes some of the most elegant, nuanced, fruity and splendid of all Madeira’s. Production rarely exceeds 3000 bottles a year, everything handmade, everything in canteiros, meaning heated by air in old lofts. Where can you buy it? Normally only at their very old fashioned shop in Funchal. Fantastic! Very pale amber, dried apricots, raisins, bananas, vanilla (and it cannot be from the vastly old barrels....) fantastic layers and complexity. Fresh and high acidity, again nuanced feel, refreshing, lively, intense and still manages to be refreshing, long. 93

1980 ABSL Terrantez
DEC 12 Orange-amber. Lime and lemons nose, touch of nuts and spices. High acidity, lively, refreshing, rich, more intense than the '79 but lacks the nuances and complexity, long. 94

1980 ABSL Malvasia:
DEC 12 Orange-amber colour. More powerful nose, rich, but still has the hallmark purity of fruits that no other Madeira producer manages quite as well. Fresh acidity, maybe more balanced with the fruit than most of the rest of the range, orange marmalade palate, long. 93

1979 ABSL Terrantez
DEC 12 Pale orange. Citrus, nuts, a touch of spices, fairly dry for Terrantez. Fresh and fairly high acidity, leaner and focused palate, fantastic finish, layers, almost smoky, dried fruit, Madeira's Islay in a way, very long. 95

ABSL Malvasia Reserva Velha
MAR 13 Amber with golden rim. Apricots, raisins, pure and fruity as always from ABSL. Fresh acidity, lively, almost creamy texture, refined, nuanced and elegant, lovely length. 91

ABSL Malvazia Reserva Vehla
DEC 12 Pale amber. Pure nose, fruity, touch of nuts. Playful acidity, rich, almost creamy texture, elegant and again pure. Long finish. 92

ABSL Muito Velho Doce
DEC 12 Meaning very old and unknown age. Amber gold. Rich nose, apricots and orange peel nose. Fresh acidity, elegant, lively, nuanced and refreshing, long. 92

ABSL Meio Doce Muito Vehla
MAY 12 Pale amber, rich, plums, tighter feel. Rich palate, fresh and lively, elegant, dried fruits, apricots, nuts, long, somewhat leaner finish. As I've written earlier, the Olim brothers of ABSL has a "large" stock left from their father and grandfather, and their not quite sure of age. This is probably Boal, at least from the 1970's, probably much older. 92

ABSL Reserva Vehla Meio Doce
DEC 12 Amber. Simpler fruit and nose, lacks complexity after the others. Fresh acidity, lively, highly enjoyable, probably Tinta Negra or blend (nobody knows). 87

ABSL Boal Extra Reserva
MAY 12 Golden, amber tints. Nuanced, hint of Christmas cake, citrus, and fruits. Layered, stunning balance, superb freshness, rich but elegant, long. 94

ABSL Boal Reserva Vehla
APR 12 ABSL: Artur de Barros e Sousa Limited, a very different company indeed. Such charm, such rarity. They make about 4000 bottles in total every year, in one, two or three cuvees. So every wine is a rarity that would make names like DRC embarrassed. And, (if you're not lucky), you have to buy the bottle, at their shop, in Funchal (and that’s an experience by itself). Nobody alive knows the age of this wine, as the father and grandfather of the Olims brothers running ABSL today, wasn't too keen on writing everything in details. This wine is older than the 1970's, probably. How old? Anyone’s guess. Pale amber, spices, exotic spices, floral, citrus, orange marmalade, but also something fresher, like lime zest, nuts, cake, cinnamon, clove, nuanced and elegant. Fresh and high acidity, refreshing, playful, refreshing, pungent, in a gentlemanly way, it's like a Bentley with a leopard colored exhaust-system. Elegant at first glance, but something going on. Waxy texture, long finish. 92